This is the minimum and maximum grass heights, along with their mowing heights,
for some of the grasses in our area.

Type Min. Ht. Mow At Max. Ht. Mow At
Bermuda
1/2
2/3
2
2 2/3
Centipede
1
1 1/3
1 1/2
2
Fine Fescues
1 1/2
2
2 1/2
3 1/3
Kentucky Blue
1 1/2
2
2 1/2
3 1/3
Rye
1 1/2
2
2 1/2
3 1/3
St. Augustine
2
2 2/3
4
5 1/3
Tall Fescues
2 1/2
3 1/3
3
4
Zoysia
3/4
1
2
2 2/3

Even with the proper applications of fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides
the difference between an "average" and a "great" looking lawn is proper mowing.
Here are some tips.

Never -  scalp the grass when mowing.
Never -  cut more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blades in a single mowing.
Never -  mow a wet lawn.  This causes uneven cutting and invites fungus.
Never -  make sharp or abrupt turns with a mower.  This will cause uneven cutting, tears the tops of the grass, and can even damage the roots; all of which invites fungus and even insects.
Mow -  once a week.  Normally, this is sufficient.  However, in the spring and early summer, when the grass grows faster, it may be necessary to mow twice a week to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the grass height.
Keep -  the mower blade sharp.  A dull blade tears the grass, causing their tops to burn brown, which makes the grass prone to fungus diseases.  At the minimum, sharpen the blade at the beginning of the moving season, and again in mid-summer.  Sharpen more often for large lawns, or for lawns than require frequent moving.   Replace the blade when it is bent, chipped, or will no longer take an edge.
Mow -  in different directions.  One time horizontal, the next vertical, and then diagonal.  This prevents the grass from growing, "leaning", in one direction.
Grass -  does better at its maximum height.  If the grass is kept lower during the spring & fall, permit it to grow to the maximum height during the hotter months.
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